Between glances, attempts and sensibilities: the genesis of Canto Primo
Verona. The same tragic and romantic inspiration as Romeo and Juliet, but this time with a different ending. One designer in Argentina, the other in Italy. Two parallel paths, united by a free, profound, and sensitive vision. Then they met an artist who was able to connect them—not only professionally, but in the urgent need to create something that went beyond fashion. They met again in Italy, all three, and Canto Primo was born. Not a project conceived on paper, but an alignment of intentions, sensibilities, and visions.
This is the story of their first collection, born without strategy but with a genuine fire. In this interview, Lola Català and Carola Quaglia tell us about the beginning of their journey: from salvaged coats to iconic jackets, and a production that found its greatest strength in spontaneity.
1. What was the spark that drove you to create your first collection, and what message did you want to convey through those garments?
Carola : The first collection came about spontaneously, as if the planets had aligned: nothing was planned. We wanted to create a brand that was a mix of art, cinema, fashion, and literature, a project that would allow us to express ourselves. We also knew that the only way to really get started was through sustainability, since we had both already worked in the fashion industry.
Without having a large initial investment, upcycling was a natural fit: it allowed us to use quality materials, including Italian ones, that would otherwise have been discarded. It was a creative and fun journey, through which we discovered the many possibilities there were in giving new life to fabrics.
Lola : Initially, our partner, an artist and illustrator, contributed his illustrations, which we transformed into printed sweatshirts. This sparked the idea of creating distinctive yet wearable pieces. The message of the first collection was very personal: each of us felt like we were in a "dark forest," in a moment of uncertainty, but with a fire within us ready to be heard. We wanted to share this energy with the world and give others our voice, at a time when we were trying to start the life we truly wanted to live, not the one imposed on us by others.
2. How did you select the materials for the first collection, and how did deadstock and fabric availability influence the final design?
Carola : The first collection was a big experiment: we researched, tested, and learned how materials reacted and what potential they had. We purchased most of the fabrics and garments at the markets in Turin, a city with a strong vintage culture, and it was there that we really began to explore the world of upcycling.
Lola : There's a story that perfectly captures the spirit of our beginnings: one day, a woman was throwing away some of her husband's clothes, who had presumably recently passed away. They were extremely high-quality pieces—sweaters, coats, cashmere blazers, all tailored—and she gave them to us. Among them was a men's jacket that we initially didn't know how to use and were almost throwing away. Then we decided to add a patch to the back, but we wanted to avoid the "glued patch" effect. We created a handcrafted weave of lace and fabrics: that's how our first jacket was born, which has now become a true bestseller.
Without that donation, we probably would never have embarked on this journey. At the time, we didn't have the resources to experiment or plan, so we worked very instinctively, immediately transforming what we found. Only now, with more experience, can we explore new techniques and experiment with greater awareness.
3. What was the most challenging process during the prototyping and testing phase? Do you have a story or anecdote that you remember as a key moment?
Lola : The biggest challenges in the initial phase weren't the product itself, but everything that revolves around creating a collection: organizing the shoots, managing the e-commerce, and especially the production. Finding a seamstress, for example, was a real challenge—Carola literally traveled all over Turin!
Carola : Even sourcing fabrics was complex: some materials, like stretch fabrics, are almost impossible to find in deadstock. Only recently did we start collaborating with a wool mill to source better quality fabrics. Markets offer good knitwear and certain types of wool, but it's much more difficult to find technical or specialty materials.
Another major challenge was—and continues to be—scaling the project: finding a balance between artisanal production and economic sustainability, while managing to sell consistently throughout the year, not just during launches or "drops." It's a continuous growth process that requires a great deal of organization and perseverance.
4. How did that collection define Canto Primo's aesthetic identity? Are there any details that have become signatures of your style ever since?
Carola and Lola : Yes, absolutely. From the very first collection, some elements emerged that have become Canto Primo's signature features, such as lace and prints. The Canto Primo man exudes a feminine energy, an aspect that comes from our third partner, and this characteristic has been evident from the very beginning.
The falling threads and delicate, sensitive embroidery are details that have accompanied us since our first garments and even evoke our university thesis. Likewise, materials like leather and denim have always been integral to our aesthetic, helping define the brand's unique identity.
5. Looking back, what lessons did your first collection teach you (in terms of materials, production, communication, or relationship with the public)?
Lola : Looking back, the first collection taught us a lot, especially in terms of communication. We understood how important it is to plan the narrative of our collections and the brand's vision in advance.
Carola : The second collection, in fact, was organized in a much more structured way: we defined how much content was needed, how to manage the shoot, backstage, and promotional materials. The first, on the other hand, was more spontaneous: we just put two models in front of the camera and shot, without thinking too much about the communication aspect.
Without a physical store or events, our Instagram has become our main showcase. Today, we know it's crucial to create content that conveys the brand's soul, not just showcasing the clothes.
6. How did those initial choices influence subsequent collections? Have you changed your approach, and if so, what direction are you moving in now?
Carola : One-of-a-kind pieces are certainly a small part of the brand's identity, but we've understood that much of our energy needs to be directed towards ongoing pieces that can reach a wider audience.
The first garments were so handcrafted and complex that they required a very long production time, which was difficult to sustain in the final price. Over time, we learned to find the right balance between time, cost, and price, managing to maintain high quality without sacrificing the ability to sell steadily and affordably.