SONG ONE: Radically sustainable
Canto Primo is a creative collective born from the encounter between Argentine illustrator Franco Zuculini and designers Lola Català and Carola Quaglia . Founded in 2021, the brand stands out for its radical approach to sustainable fashion, combining art, design, and recycling. Each collection takes shape from Zuculini's artistic universe, which intertwines with Lola and Carola's sartorial expertise, united by a common vision: reducing waste and promoting the circular economy.
In an industry still tied to waste and overproduction, Canto Primo chooses an alternative approach, based on the recovery and transformation of existing materials. To delve deeper into this process, we spoke with Lola and Carola, who explained how creative reuse and upcycling are at the heart of every collection. There's no compromise with the traditional system: only discarded materials are reinterpreted with artisanal care and artistic vision. A production model that challenges the rules and invites us to rethink the very concept of anew.
1.How do you choose fabrics (especially denim and deadstock) and what sustainability criteria guide this choice?
Lola : The denim is sourced from a company in central Italy we work with that specializes in denim deadstock. They acquired a large quantity of materials from a denim factory that produced for various brands and has unfortunately closed. Among this remaining stock are flawed garments, samples, or incomplete products—without finishes, washes, or accessories—that cannot be sold for technical or aesthetic reasons.
We've been working with these materials, which would otherwise be destined for waste, for about a year and a half. This company specialized in washes, dyes, and color treatments, so we're fortunate to be able to use denim with unique and distinctive effects, which often become the basis for our one-of-a-kind pieces.
We're currently working on a large stock of denim, still rolled and tied with plastic ties, not even washed or softened. We're working with a dry cleaner to give it a new lease of life through washes and processes that soften it and make it ready to be transformed into new garments.
2. What are the main difficulties you encounter in transforming scraps and unsold items into new denim garments? (Fabric structure, washes, aesthetics, etc.)
Carola : The main challenge is definitely quality control. When we work with scraps or unsold fabrics, we often don't know their history: we don't know where the original defect was or what kind of treatments they've already undergone. A piece of denim may seem perfect at first, but then, during cutting, a hidden problem is revealed—it may tear easily or have uneven discoloration.
This is why we learned that the first fundamental phase is to thoroughly understand the material: observe it, test it, and study how it reacts before putting it into production.
On the other hand, working with such a wide variety of materials has given us great mental versatility. By not focusing on a single type of product, we've learned to navigate many different fabrics and processes. This experience allows us to be more flexible and creative, even during the design phase—we often discover new possibilities while we're working on the garments.
3. How does environmental awareness influence your aesthetic and design decisions?
Lola : For us, sustainability is a principle that guides both our production and aesthetic choices. We avoid highly polluting materials and processes—such as flock, foil, rhinestones, or synthetic applications—because they have a significant environmental impact and are difficult to recycle.
We prefer to reuse existing materials: this extends their lifespan and reduces the need for new production. This is precisely the foundation of our idea of sustainability: not wasting or creating needlessly, but instead enhancing what already exists.
4. What practices do you adopt to reduce the impact of the production cycle (washing, treatments, transport, packaging)?
Carola : Regarding logistics and returns, we've developed a very specific policy. Initially, we decided not to accept returns, to foster greater awareness at the point of purchase. Later, to meet our customers' needs, we introduced returns, but with a controlled procedure—it's necessary to demonstrate that the item doesn't fit for genuine reasons. This helps us reduce unnecessary shipments and the environmental impact of transportation.
As for packaging, we use only recycled paper and plastic-free materials. These are simple but concrete choices. Creating fully sustainable packaging requires a significant financial commitment, but it's a goal we're continuing to work toward.
5. Do you already have data or methods to measure the positive impact of your work (e.g., materials recovered, emissions avoided, garment durability)?
Lola : We haven't yet started systematically measuring the positive impact of our work, but we're committed to doing so soon. We've already collected and tracked a lot of internal data—such as the amount of materials recovered and garments made through collaborations with other brands—which provides a solid foundation to build on.
The goal is to transform this information into concrete sustainability indicators, so we can quantify the real impact of our practices and progressively improve over time.
6. Looking ahead: Are you considering certifications or growth strategies? Do you envision yourself oriented more toward scaling to reach a wider audience or toward remaining a niche brand, tied to unique craftsmanship?
Lola : We don't currently have any certifications and we don't plan to obtain them anytime soon. I'm a bit skeptical about the topic, because obtaining and maintaining a certification requires an annual fee, and in our case, it wouldn't have any real added value: our brand's sustainability is already evident in our daily practices, in the materials we use, and in the transparency of the process. Certifications can be useful for joining corporate networks with common rules, but for the end consumer, they often don't really make a difference.
As for our long-term vision, on the one hand, we want to maintain our artisanal soul and continue creating unique pieces, which remain the heart of the brand—a bit like works of art, unique and personal. On the other hand, we are working to expand our offering, with products that allow us to reach a wider audience without distorting our identity.
Our goal is to create a production hub dedicated not only to our brand, but also open to other companies that work with upcycling and deadstock fabrics, to foster a more circular and shared supply chain.
